Having problems hooping a light weight cap

Gilligan · July 14th, 2011, 01:05 PM

It's Sanmar's C863.

Very lightweight.

It doesn't really want to grip where the brim meets the hat and if you pull even the slightest it just slides right on through.

Any advice?

Or does anyone know of possibly a better place to ask this question as this site seems more geared towards selling equipment in a sense.

AJST · July 14th, 2011, 05:16 PM

When I have a cap that is too thin to grip, I cut a strip of backing and place that on the front of the cap. Not in the sewing area, just across the top of the brim. It may take more than one strip but it makes the frame grip the cap.

widners · July 15th, 2011, 11:41 AM

You are using one of the Brother machines right? If I have this happen and the design is not extremely high I just run it just like that. As long as the material is tight I have had no problems. I didn't look it up but I assume it is unstructured?

I realize this might not work on all designs, I may have been lucky on the designs I needed to run but in the past when they pulled through I just run them just like that as long as I can get the material smooth and tight.

Gilligan · July 15th, 2011, 12:33 PM

Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned Brother PR-650... sorry.

I took some pics to show what I am working with... VERY unstructured.

widners · July 15th, 2011, 03:04 PM

Wow, that is rough. That is not only unstructured but see through. I would probably double up a heavy tearaway and if the design could stand it I would just hoop it regularly and let the cap pull through. Hopefully you don't have many of those to do and put them on your do not buy list.

BTW, don't get discouraged on unstructured caps. In my opinion your problems are coming from the very thin material more so than it being unstructured. In my experience a quality unstructured cap will be much easier than a very low quality one. Also make sure you don't use the black needle plate cover on unstructured caps. It causes the cap to pull down into the black piece and will cause you some problems.

Gilligan · July 15th, 2011, 04:34 PM

Good to know... only about 120 of them!!!

obemb · July 17th, 2011, 03:43 PM

I have Tajimas, but the hat frames look almost the same. If you can't tighten your hoops then use 2 or 3 backings. You are basically making a structured hat for a few minutes until the sewing is done. If you try this and it works for you, remember to pull the backings off 1 at a time as to not distort the embroidery. I've been doing unstructured hats for 16 years now, Good Luck!

Gilligan · July 17th, 2011, 05:46 PM

Yeah, I tightened it a little already and double backed it.

I'll tighten it some more.

Flint54 · July 18th, 2011, 03:54 PM

You are on the right track, only other suggestion is to use precut tearaway hat backing, at least 2 sheets and if you can go get a can of spray tack adhesive for the backing on the hat. Using it will prevent any movement of the hat fabric on the backing while being stitched. Additionally using 2 or more layers of backing will lessen any flagging of the hat while being sewn.

Gilligan · July 18th, 2011, 07:19 PM

Ok... I'm trying a ton of stuff here... my problem is that when I get the hat clamped down all is well. Then I put the bill holder thingy down and it bulges the sides out. So I push those down to smooth it out as to not bump on the machine and it immediately pulls the hat out of the teeth part about 1/2 an inch.

Gonna try a few things.