Help on Loading Frames

67z28 · July 31st, 2014, 03:20 PM

I am new to embroidery and would like some help on how to load clothing into the frames and get it straight and level. I have played with old t-shirt and things, but is there an easier way to get everything straight and in the same place on shirts or shorts? I will be embroidering some kids shirts and shorts for my son's baseball team and want to make sure everything looks good. They also want me to put there numbers on back of their hats so that will be my next project. Any help or tips would be great.

Ray

aardvark7 · July 31st, 2014, 04:35 PM

This is a difficult thing to advise from a distance as there are a lot of variables and it needs practice to repeat accurately and quickly.

First, it depends upon the type of frame, as some are spring loaded and some can be rotated after mounting (if necessary), but the most common these days have side arms and need to be put on straight in the first place.

In this case the most important thing is to get the frame set correctly to accept the fabric and backing, depending upon the thickness. Too tight and you won't get the frame on, or it will distort and possibly mark the fabric; too loose and it will fall off midway through embroidering.

Once you have done that, the easiest way in the first place is to mark the centre point where the logo will be with chalk or a chinagraph pencil. Then, when that point is in the centre of the frame, use the weave of the fabric to judge the straightness. Generally, if the badge is on the left breast the rib you see in most woven or knitted cloth should be straight up and down, or rotated very slightly clockwise (look at the knitting on a pullover as you wear it and see that it goes to the right as it goes over your shoulders!).

As long as the fabric is flat (not pulled tight) and you apply the frame evenly, then it should not distort and will be a nice tension That can be checked by trying to pinch a little of the fabric. You shouldn't be able to gather any between your fingers with just a gentle pressure. Do make sure you push the inside part slightly beyond flat, so that the fabric and backing are proud of the frame. This gives the tension and ensures the frame does not hold the fabric above the needle plate (which would cause all sorts of thread and sewing problems!)

Then, finally, ensure that the backing covers the entire frame. DO NOT LEAVE GAPS AT THE EDGES!!!

If you find fault with any of the above, START AGAIN! Do not think 'That will do' because minor issues can cause horrible results.

To be honest, though, you should have been given a good deal of demonstration by those who sold you the machine. If they didn't, go back to them and get them to show you.

aardvark7 · July 31st, 2014, 04:38 PM

I should have mentioned that lots of people use framing sets, to help automate the process, but they can be expensive.

You can make templates to mark logo position, or just use a ruler, but once you've done it a while it isn't too difficult to do it by eye.

67z28 · July 31st, 2014, 09:56 PM

The frames I have is a two piece that has the main frame with a ring that slides down over the fabric.

So I don't need to pull the fabric tight. That would have been my first issue. I think I will take some old t-shirts and practice.

Thanks for you guidance.

Ray

aardvark7 · August 1st, 2014, 03:05 AM

Would you just clarify if you are doing machine embroidery, or is this for hand work?

The reason I ask is that for machines, it is the inner part which is pressed into place, not sliding the outer part down, as with hand embroidery.

Doing it the second way will not work at all on a machine of any type, even a small home version.

67z28 · August 1st, 2014, 09:02 AM

It is an SWF machine

aardvark7 · August 1st, 2014, 09:45 AM

I know of the machines (they are a respectable make) but haven't used one. However, I have used Barudan, ZSK, Tajima, Brother, Happy and Melco, amongst others, and framing is almost identical with the requirements being the same for any embroidery machine.

The outer frame will be placed inside the garment and underneath one or more pieces of appropriate backing (this can be cut off, tear off, or even dissolvable!), aligned with the reuired embroidery position. Then the inner frame, which often has side arms to attach to the machine, is pushed inside to give the fabric tension and hold everything together.

I honestly think you are better looking for some training in this as it is a recipe for disaster to try to guess your way through it. There are so many areas that can cause issues that even experienced operators take some time to sort (thread tension, incorrect settings, timings, poor quality digitizing or automatic letter generation, dodgy needles, wrong needles, poor maintenance, dirt, etc., etc.).

I've done the job for over 35 years and when there is an issue it is not always obvious.

Robert Young · August 1st, 2014, 10:09 AM

I am not that smart so I still to this day use a pc of thin masking tape... I place the tape either where the bottom of the embroidery should be or in the middle (and adjust my starting point accordingly). then when I hoop I just make sure the tape is straight in my hoop. You can sew through the tape or you can remove the tape before sewing depending on the design. Simple and designs are always straight.