Needle breaks, Barudan BEVY

SoccerEmb · February 16th, 2011, 07:05 PM

I'm having problems with head number 2, and it's not just breaking needles occasionally. For the last week or two, it's a good day when that head only breaks one needle. And it's not breaking the same needle every time, it's broken different ones at different times. I've checked the hook timing and there's nothing wrong there that I can see, I've checked the threading and that's all fine. At first I thought it might be because of the hats I was doing and the fact that there was a lot of embroidery layered in a small space, but it continued breaking needles after I had finished the hats. One more interesting thing it's doing is that at some point before a needle actually breaks it will get nicked by something (I don't know what) and break just the point, but continue sewing. Does anyone have any other ideas as to what the problem is? Anything else I could possibly check?

twok4hd · February 16th, 2011, 09:36 PM

You mentioned hook timing, what about hook gap? Is the hook damaged in any way? A burr or something? Have you removed all the broken needle pieces? One thing that helped us when we were breaking needles on one customers deign on visors was adding a riser on the needle plate on our Barudan. I am no expert, but thought I would chime in with some thoughts.

SoccerEmb · February 18th, 2011, 03:30 PM

I checked the hook and there aren't any nicks or burrs that I could see and the hook gap was fine too. As for the broken pieces, I had a problem with that once before so now I always check for the piece(s) before starting the machine again and if I can't find them then I spray out the hook assembly with compressed air to be sure.

I'm not sure what you mean by a riser on the needle plate. Is that something that comes with the machine or would I have to order one?

twok4hd · February 18th, 2011, 06:40 PM

We had a Barudan tech come and do an annual service at the same time these visors were eating our lunc. He had those with him. We have a late model Barudan (2009) and if you look at the needle plate where the needle goes through there is a small hole on the front and behind it. He used 2 screws to attach it there. We leave it on all the time. I looked at Barudans part site, and I couldn't find it back then, but they may show them now. Call Barudan parts, they should be able to help you out. I think we paid $25.00 for it.

beesweet · February 19th, 2011, 08:32 AM

We've had a major problem with our BEVT Elite Pro creating random loops on caps lettering and having a lot of popping and flagging during the sew. Have checked the pressure foot depth. Playing with the tension doesn't solve the problem. After reading your posts we'll try the riser.

Regarding the needle plate riser, the following parts may be the ones you mentioned. KX270440 - needle plate cap attachment, set, which is supposed to be discontinued and replaced by KX270411 and KX270421. Be aware it lists specific needle plates this works with. Found them by searching for generic needle plate on their parts purchase website. Check and see if it's the same thing.

rtfulk · February 19th, 2011, 09:37 AM

I don't own a Barudan, but did encounter a similar problem with one of my machines. My problem was the cutter wasn't fully retracting. have you removed the needle plate to see it there is anything preventing the cutter from fully retracting?

twok4hd · February 19th, 2011, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beesweet

We've had a major problem with our BEVT Elite Pro creating random loops on caps lettering and having a lot of popping and flagging during the sew. Have checked the pressure foot depth. Playing with the tension doesn't solve the problem. After reading your posts we'll try the riser.

Regarding the needle plate riser, the following parts may be the ones you mentioned. KX270440 - needle plate cap attachment, set, which is supposed to be discontinued and replaced by KX270411 and KX270421. Be aware it lists specific needle plates this works with. Found them by searching for generic needle plate on their parts purchase website. Check and see if it's the same thing.

That is the one. It isn't very tall, but it sure made a difference on our Elite Pro II. Thanks, for finding it.

SoccerEmb · February 22nd, 2011, 04:03 PM

It looks like I actually already have the riser on all of them. I believe the machine came with them when we got it. That said, the one on head 2 is banged up a bit around the hole the needle goes through. The needle depth is normal and as far as I can tell there is nothing preventing the cutter from retracting fully, so I'm wondering if I just need to replace the riser.

stevemb · March 9th, 2011, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoccerEmb

I'm having problems with head number 2, and it's not just breaking needles occasionally. For the last week or two, it's a good day when that head only breaks one needle. And it's not breaking the same needle every time, it's broken different ones at different times. I've checked the hook timing and there's nothing wrong there that I can see, I've checked the threading and that's all fine. At first I thought it might be because of the hats I was doing and the fact that there was a lot of embroidery layered in a small space, but it continued breaking needles after I had finished the hats. One more interesting thing it's doing is that at some point before a needle actually breaks it will get nicked by something (I don't know what) and break just the point, but continue sewing. Does anyone have any other ideas as to what the problem is? Anything else I could possibly check?

You may want to check the position of the moveable knife on the needle plate. There are two "inspection" holes to the right of the needle hole...one forward and one about 3/4" behind. Move the needles to #15 to get a good view of the rear inspection hole. In that hole, you should see a "pin" that drives the blade. The pin should be centered in the hole or slightly forward of the hole. If it is too far back in the hole or too far forward, needle breaks will occure, usually at trims.

Also, you can rotate the main shaft to bottom dead center and check the position of needle relative to the needle hole. The needle should be centered. If it favors the front or rear, a smal amount of needle deflection (especially when sewing of caps) will cause the needle to deflect or hit the needle plate. There is usually evidence of this with scarring on your needle plate.