Miami Ink!!
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September 18th, 2012, 12:54 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by screenprintguy
Any nylobond that I've used before actually made the ink turn into a rock a couple weeks later and didn't do any bleed blocking only helps adhere to the nylon. Is there a bleed block additive?
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You can try matting powder. That in small amounts will help. The point of adding fast flash powder or bonding agent to plastisol or hugger is that you cure the ink at a lower temperature of say 120 Celsius instead of 168 and with the lower temperature you get less dye migration. Yes it does go harder according to volume you use, you can try printing a first down Lycra / Stretch as well...
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September 18th, 2012, 01:00 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
Actually wiz nylon catalyst is not intended to lower the cure temp, it is to help adhere to nylon. If you read the instructions it states it still requires the ink to be fully cured. I have seen people for years think nylon catalyst is a curing additive, sure printing tote bags or chairs you can get away with a less than cured print but it is not worth the risk on apparel that will be washed. They make whites that are for poly and have a lower cure temp, they also make inks that are catalyzed for nylon with a lower cure temp.
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September 18th, 2012, 01:49 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
I'm trying a gallon of the Wilflex Epic Performance white. It's supposed to cure between 240-280 degrees vs 320-350. Supposedly smoother too, we will see. I've actually in the past, mixed poly white with some black, made a nice grey and used that as an underbase. They do make an underbase grey but for the extra doe it's easy to whip some up on your own. The grey seems to help block out alot better than just the poly white, especially on camo, camo bleeds like a stuffed pig and we do alot of printing on camo from Rothco. Colors pop nice on a grey base as well. I'm just always looking to see what else people have had luck with. Kevin said he is staying out of the poly white game because of the un-reliability of dyeing these days. Seems there are some factories not properly "fixing" in the dye and we end up with the battle in our shops.
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September 18th, 2012, 01:49 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
Mike the nylon hugger catalyst here clearly says reduces curing after gelling at 120 degrees with plastisol @ 5-6% recommended added, needs 96 hours minimum to cure before wearing, washing etc.
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September 18th, 2012, 01:53 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by screenprintguy
I'm trying a gallon of the Wilflex Epic Performance white. It's supposed to cure between 240-280 degrees vs 320-350. Supposedly smoother too, we will see. I've actually in the past, mixed poly white with some black, made a nice grey and used that as an underbase. They do make an underbase grey but for the extra doe it's easy to whip some up on your own. The grey seems to help block out alot better than just the poly white, especially on camo, camo bleeds like a stuffed pig and we do alot of printing on camo from Rothco. Colors pop nice on a grey base as well. I'm just always looking to see what else people have had luck with. Kevin said he is staying out of the poly white game because of the un-reliability of dyeing these days. Seems there are some factories not properly "fixing" in the dye and we end up with the battle in our shops.
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Correct! The fabrics are sometimes over dyed, particularly navy and black which can sometimes bleed red or blue etc. there are also many dies and process like reactive, arsenic and sulphur overdies activators etc. it's usually the cheaper shirts which give grief. We don't print anything bought out of a chain store anymore, only from decorator distributors of garments. Even then someone always has an odd batch that mis-behaves!!! We charge a premium now for polyester printing....
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September 18th, 2012, 01:59 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Printwizard
Mike the nylon hugger catalyst here clearly says reduces curing after gelling at 120 degrees with plastisol @ 5-6% recommended added, needs 96 hours minimum to cure before wearing, washing etc.
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Not familiar with hugger but nylobond clearly states cure at the plastisols normal curing temp. It also is not recommended to use with any poly inks since it will compromise the poly blocking ability hence never use it for poly ink printing.
What is hugger and by who?
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September 18th, 2012, 02:00 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by screenprintguy
I'm trying a gallon of the Wilflex Epic Performance white. It's supposed to cure between 240-280 degrees vs 320-350. Supposedly smoother too, we will see. I've actually in the past, mixed poly white with some black, made a nice grey and used that as an underbase. They do make an underbase grey but for the extra doe it's easy to whip some up on your own. The grey seems to help block out alot better than just the poly white, especially on camo, camo bleeds like a stuffed pig and we do alot of printing on camo from Rothco. Colors pop nice on a grey base as well. I'm just always looking to see what else people have had luck with. Kevin said he is staying out of the poly white game because of the un-reliability of dyeing these days. Seems there are some factories not properly "fixing" in the dye and we end up with the battle in our shops.
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I have low cure polys as well only problem tho is if you print any other color then you have no choice but to cure at higher temps.
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September 18th, 2012, 02:01 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
I know what you mean with customers trying to bring off the rack stuff, "NO NO NO", we've noticed 50/50 jerzees brand in Kelly green has something reaaaally nasty in it, when we get a run of those, we all have to put 3m masks on in the shop, the smell and smoke from those is awefull.
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September 18th, 2012, 08:01 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
cures at 290, its the best on the market, I have been using it since it came out.
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September 18th, 2012, 08:02 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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Re: Miami Ink!!
performance white that is.
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