PANELFrame system

inkman996 · July 20th, 2011, 01:47 PM

We have been using them for quite a while now. I cannot say they are perfect but they do replace statics well. The issues I have had are inconsistent tension loss, some panels will not engage and essentially are useless, the mesh tends to rip (small rips) at the edges on almost all of them. Some frames are not perfectly flat. I have two that the locking strip is coming out of the channel.

All minor things I guess but what I gather is they will not last as long as a well kept static and will need remeshing more often. Up side you can do it in house in minutes and mesh count you want.

srimonogramming · July 20th, 2011, 01:51 PM

I bought 3 and six panels but they were from the first batch and the chinese made mesh panels. Supposedly, the panels are made with Sefar mesh now so most of the issues I had with them should be gone. Now, I've heard from several different customers that the tension levels are "decent", in the 20's but nobody has really been very specific with their tension levels on very used frames. I think this product could be lethal and one of the best ever if used with the right mesh. For example, I think if you used Murakami Smartmesh with the S threads that don't need high tension to work great then the panel frames would be a terrific product considering price in the equation. If you use the saati and sefar standard mesh, they will relax and lose too much tension over the first few rounds through production and they'd probably be too low in tension when they finally got to a stable tension level. The reason I think the smartmesh would work great with the panel frames is they don't relax as much as the other mesh that I've used. They remain much closer to the initial tension level that they were stretched to. And they also don't need the high tension levels to keep their mesh openings close to optimum specs so printing through them is super easy to do, even at 22 newtons.

So I think under the current conditions, they are a slightly better option than static aluminums that aren't using Murakami Smartmesh but nowhere near as good as shurloc ez frames or newman rollers. I think a properly stretched static aluminum using smartmesh s thread would be better than a panel frame with sefar or saati standard mesh. In case you can't tell, I really like the Murakami Smartmesh, specifically the S threads.

srimonogramming · July 20th, 2011, 01:55 PM

Well everything I said in my post is opposite of Tony's evaluation! I've had much better results using Murakami over Sefar and Saati, and the Newman Roller mesh is a close second to Murakami.

Tony, where did you here they were using Murakami in the initial mesh panels? I've looked at the mesh up close through microscope and they aren't any murakami that I've seen. They are the worst looking things I've ever seen. They don't look or feel like any other mesh I've used. Plus the Murakami I've used recently, the smartmesh s threads hold their tension much better than the sefar and saati I am using right beside it. The sefar on a newman roller is loosing 5 newtons after the first run and continue to do so until the 4th or 5th run through production, and the Murakami is literally half that, and stabilized by the 2nd or 3rd run.

preston · July 20th, 2011, 02:17 PM

I have been using them since day one when they came out. The first china mesh did suck but the Sefar mesh they use now works real good. Tensions are good enough for most all work we do and have never had a problem with them due to tension.

Some of the newer mesh panels that are high mesh count can be a little scary when you put them on as you can pop them if you do not have everything just right and the mesh perfectly centered. I think the problem is the corners need to be a little softer. I am actually starting to cut the tension rails down in length and this solves the corner softness issue.

The only other problem I have had is that on some of my older frames the powder coating is turning to mush and I have to scrape it out of the tension rails when I change mesh. I am thinking of stripping all the powder coating off them as they would be 100 times better just being plain or anodized aluminum.

tonypep · July 20th, 2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by srimonogramming

Well everything I said in my post is opposite of Tony's evaluation! I've had much better results using Murakami over Sefar and Saati, and the Newman Roller mesh is a close second to Murakami.

Tony, where did you here they were using Murakami in the initial mesh panels? I've looked at the mesh up close through microscope and they aren't any murakami that I've seen. They are the worst looking things I've ever seen. They don't look or feel like any other mesh I've used. Plus the Murakami I've used recently, the smartmesh s threads hold their tension much better than the sefar and saati I am using right beside it. The sefar on a newman roller is loosing 5 newtons after the first run and continue to do so until the 4th or 5th run through production, and the Murakami is literally half that, and stabilized by the 2nd or 3rd run.

Actually I haven't laid hands one one yet so it's not an eval.....I was just getting ready to build a stretching table but want to play with these first. The mesh info came directly from Nazdar. I suppose they could be wrong.

jmd · July 20th, 2011, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by preston

I have been using them since day one when they came out. The first china mesh did suck but the Sefar mesh they use now works real good. Tensions are good enough for most all work we do and have never had a problem with them due to tension.

Some of the newer mesh panels that are high mesh count can be a little scary when you put them on as you can pop them if you do not have everything just right and the mesh perfectly centered. I think the problem is the corners need to be a little softer. I am actually starting to cut the tension rails down in length and this solves the corner softness issue.

The only other problem I have had is that on some of my older frames the powder coating is turning to mush and I have to scrape it out of the tension rails when I change mesh. I am thinking of stripping all the powder coating off them as they would be 100 times better just being plain or anodized aluminum.

How much are you cutting off, and are you cutting both long and short sides?
Thanks

pwalsh · July 22nd, 2011, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonypep

Actually I haven't laid hands one one yet so it's not an eval.....I was just getting ready to build a stretching table but want to play with these first. The mesh info came directly from Nazdar. I suppose they could be wrong.

Tony: Not sure who at Nazdar stated that the initial mesh used on the Panel Frames came from Murakami. Alan is 100% correct that it was a Chinese sourced product that has since been replaced with Sefar mesh.

Big E · July 22nd, 2011, 09:38 AM

I bought 16 23"x31" last October and won't get anything else. Not one failure from the panels or mesh and the tension is within 2 to 3 points of the beginning numbers of 28 to 30 on the newton meter

tonypep · July 22nd, 2011, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwalsh

Tony: Not sure who at Nazdar stated that the initial mesh used on the Panel Frames came from Murakami. Alan is 100% correct that it was a Chinese sourced product that has since been replaced with Sefar mesh.

Peter it was someone in Tech Service no need to point fingers but thanks for clearing that up.
tp

jmd · July 22nd, 2011, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmd

How much are you cutting off, and are you cutting both long and short sides?
Thanks

Prestom. you say you cut your frame locks down. How much and which ones, Thanks